| 88-91 Pickup 2.4L Engine Code: 22R-E |
| 88-91 Pickup 3.0L Engine Code: 3VZ-E |
| 88-91 4Runner 2.4L Engine Code: 22R-E |
| 88-91 4Runner 3.0L Engine Code: 3VZ-E |
| Trouble code |
Fault location |
Probable Cause |
| 11 |
Engine control module (ECM) power supply |
Wiring, ignition switch, engine control relay, ECM |
| 12 |
Engine speed (RPM) sensor -circuit |
Wiring, RPM sensor, ignition module, ECM |
| 13 |
Engine speed (RPM) sensor -above 1000 rpm |
Wiring, RPM sensor, ignition module, ECM |
| 14 |
Ignition reference signal -no signal |
Wiring, ignition module/coil, ECM |
| 21 |
Heated oxygen sensor (H02S) -front circuit |
Wiring, H02S, ECM |
| 22 |
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor circuit |
Wiring, ECT sensor, ECM |
| 24 |
lntake air temperature (lAT) sensor-circuit |
Wiring, lAT sensor, ECM |
| 25 |
Mixture control -continuously lean |
Wiring, injector, H02S, ECTNAF sensor, intake/fue/lignition system, ECM |
| 26 |
Mixture control -continuously rich |
Wiring, injector, fuel system, cold start injector, H02S, VAF sensor, ECM |
| 27 |
Heated oxygen sensor (H02S)-rear-circuit |
Wiring, H02S, ECM |
| 31 |
Volume air flow (VAF) sensor-circuit |
Wiring, VAF sensor, ECM |
| 32 |
Volume air flow (VAF) sensor-circuit |
Wiring, VAF sensor, ECM |
| 35 |
Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor-circuit |
Wiring, BARO sensor, ECM |
| 41 |
Throttle position (TP) sensor -circuit |
Wiring, TP sensor, ECM |
| 42 |
Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) -circuit |
Wiring, VSS, ECM |
| 43 |
Starter signal -circuit |
Wiring, ignition switch, ECM |
| 51 |
Switch signal -A/C switch ON during diagnosis |
Wiring, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, ECM |
| 51 |
Switch signal -closed throttle position (CTP) switch OFF during diagnosis |
Wiring, CTP switch, ECM |
| 51 |
Switch signal -park/neutra! position (PNP) switch not in P or N during diagnosis |
Wiring, PNP switch, ECM |
| 52 |
Knock sensor (KS) -circuit |
Wiring, KS, ECM |
| 53 |
Knock control malfunction |
ECM |
| 71 |
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system malfunction |
Hose leak/blockage, wiring, EGRT sensor, EGR solenoid, ECM |
Thank you for publishing this list.
Share and enjoy!
Thank you. This is a great big help for sure
I’ve jumped said terminals/pins, and get a solid light, meaning? Thanks in advance
If your check engine light came on and that is why you are jumping the terminal….I don’t know. If your check engine light wasn’t on before you tried jumping it and you got no flashes….I would say your good to go
1988 3.0 pickup hard starting have both a 51 code and a 22 code. Waiting for a new O2 sensor to arrive. After vehicle starts and gets to temperature I stop the engine and try to restart. Appears the cold start injector is engaged and vehicle won’t start. Any ideas?
An 02 sensor doesn’t typically have hard of starting symptoms, but I do think your park neutral switch may need a looking at. The code 22 has more to do with the cooling system, but what I think is wrong is part of the park neutral switch or netral safety switch is going bad. That can cause a hard starting issue. Hope this fixes your pickup.
First off I’d like to say thank you for sharing your knowledge! I have a question, I have a newly rebuilt engine and have changed the oil twice now, ever since I got my truck back, a 1990 Toyota 22RE 4X4 DLX I’ve had a check oil light stay on until my truck gets hot. During the summer the light goes out pretty quick, couple miles, now that it’s colder it takes about 10-20 miles before it shuts off. I have no codes and I’ve also purged the EFI for about 5 minutes. Any clues? Again, thank you for the website!
Hello Don. I can possibly shed some light on this issue a bit. I rcently swapped a motor on my car 10,000k ago, and it is similar with the oil light. Hopefully whoever swapped your motor lubed the cylinder head parts with pre-lube and primed before starting for the first time. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked my motor for about 20 seconds before the engine’s first start. Ever since my first start, my oil light stays on for a good while before turning off. It is a bit worrisome to see the light. What I did while swappin the motor was replace the oil sending unit too. Did they do that for you in the rebuilt motor? And good job on changing the oil twice right away. It may take a few oil changes to drain out particles and dirt. This is commonly a thing with any rebuilt motor or cylinder head. Just not quite the same as it used to be. Cheers Don. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.