P0016 – Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A -correlation
By (Contact Me)
Last Updated 2017-08-18
ASE Master Tech
| Trouble Code | Fault Location | Probable Cause |
|---|---|---|
| P0016 | Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A -correlation | Wiring, CKP sensor, CMP sensor, mechanical fault |
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What Does Code P0016 Mean?
The camshaft position sensor (CMP) is used to determine the position of the camshaft(s). It relays this information to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM then uses this information to control the fuel injectors, and on some applications, for ignition timing. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) relays crankshaft position and engine RPM to the PCM, or ignition module. This information is used but the PCM to control ignition timing, and in some applications, it is also used to control fuel injection.
The two common CMP and CKP designs are Hall Effect and permanent magnet.
- Permanent magnet: creates an AC voltage signal that is proportional to engine speed.
A permanent magnet crankshaft sensor
(Courtesy: CP Fitters)
- Hall Effect: uses a reference voltage from the PCM to produce a DC voltage signal.
A Hall Effect crankshaft sensor
(Courtesy: nwmobilemechanicdotcom)
Inside the engine, the crankshaft and camshaft are held together by a timing belt or timing chain, which keeps them synchronized. The CKP and CMP sensors work together to keep the PCM informed about engine timing. Should the timing be off, the PCM will set a code P0016. This code stands for Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A).
Where is the P0016 sensor located?
On most applications, the camshaft position sensor(s) are located in or on the valve cover to place the sensor(s) in close proximity with a reluctor ring or protrusion on the camshaft(s) that interrupt(s) the sensors’ magnetic field to produce a signal. Crankshaft position sensors can be located on the crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic balancer), the flywheel/flex plate, or on the fuel pump on some diesel applications.
What are the common causes of code P0016 ?
To sum things up, the common causes for code P0016 are as follows:
- A faulty cam or crank sensor
- The cam or crank circuit is open or shorted
- The timing belt/chain is out of time
- The cam or crank tone ring is slipped/broken
- A problem in the VVT system
- The PCM is faulty
How expensive is it to fix code P0016 ?
Due to the high number of possible causes of code P0016, as well as the wide range of current prices of replacement parts for every possible part that can fail and set this code as a result, it is not possible to provide a repair cost estimate for this code that is even reasonably accurate for any part of the USA. However, this resource offers a cost estimator that lists both parts and labor costs for all popular makes and models in all areas of the US market.
What are the symptoms of code P0016 ?
Code P0016 may be accompanied by several different symptoms. These including: an engine that runs poorly, an engine that cranks but will not start and an illuminated check engine light.
What are common solutions to code P0016 ?
The most common solution to this code is the replacement/repair of wiring, followed by replacement of crankshaft/camshaft position sensors if the engine timing is known to be good. Less common solutions include replacement of reluctor rings, or VVT/VCT oil control solenoids. Note that PCM failures are rare.
How serious is code P0016 ?
Code P0016 should be considered serious, since the vehicle can be completely immobilized if the correlation between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors fails completely. Moreover, depending on the application and the nature of the problem, some types of engines (interference type engines with timing belts) can suffer serious, if not always fatal damage should the timing belt break or slip.
How safe is it to still drive the car with code P0016 ?
Ideally, a vehicle with this code should not be driven until the fault is found and repaired, and especially not in traffic, since the engine can stall at any time.
How difficult is it to repair code P0016 ?
In most cases, repairing this code should not present the average non-professional mechanic with undue difficulties, since the diagnostic procedure mainly involves testing circuits to verify that the resistance, continuity, ground integrity and (where applicable), reference voltages comply with values specified by the manufacturer.
However, in some cases, such as where the fault persists but the sensors’ control circuits check out, it may be necessary to test the operation of individual sensors with an oscilloscope. Note however that such tests can only be performed if the relevant reference data in the form of a wave form library is available. If an oscilloscope and suitable reference data is not available, the better option is to refer the vehicle for professional diagnosis and repair.
What are the common mistakes when repairing code P0016 ?
In many cases, sensors are condemned and replaced out of hand, when it is far more common for damaged, burnt, disconnected, or corroded wiring and/or connectors to be the real problem. Also note that poor workmanship during a timing belt or timing chain replacement can cause this code if timing marks on either or both the crankshaft and/or camshaft(s) are not properly aligned.
Timing of both the crankshaft and camshaft(s) should therefore always be verified before any components are replaced, and especially on applications that are fitted with variable valve or camshaft timing, since low oil levels, insufficient oil pressure, or failed VVT/VCT solenoids can also cause this code, or contribute to its setting.
How do you troubleshoot code P0016 ?
- Perform a visual inspection of the sensors and connections.
Many problems can easily be found in the harness and connectors. So, begin your diagnosis by visually inspecting the sensors and their connections.
- Test the sensor output
Testing the sensor varies slightly, depending on which type of sensor your vehicle uses.
-
- Permanent magnet sensor: A permanent magnet sensor can be tested using an ohmmeter (DVOM). Remove the sensor connector and attach the meter to the sensor terminals. Consult the manufactures repair information for the resistance specifications. Of course, a meter reading of OL measure there is an open in the sensor and it should be replaced. Next, crank the engine and watch the ohmmeter – the reading should fluctuate. You can also do this with your meter set to read AC voltage. If there is no change in the reading, the sensor is bad and should be replaced.
Testing a permanent magnet sensor
(Courtesy: autozone.com)
-
- Hall Effect sensor: Using the repair information for your vehicle, determine which pin on the sensor connector is the signal return wire. Using your DVOM on the DC voltage setting, back probe the sensor wire. Attach the black multimeter cable to battery ground. Cranking the engine, you should see the voltage reading on the meter fluctuate.
Testing a Hall Effect Sensor
(Courtesy: autorepairhelp.us)
Note that a damaged or improperly aligned tone ring will also prevent proper sensor operation. When in doubt, remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings.
- Test the sensors circuits
If the cam and cranks sensor check out OK, but you still have P0016 code illuminated, you’ll need to check the sensor circuit.
-
- Permanent magnet sensor: A permanent magnet sensor produces its own voltage, so it will only have two wires going to it – ground and return signal. Start by consulting the wiring diagram for your vehicle to determine which pin on the connector is signal and which is ground. All Data DIY is probably the easiest place to source your vehicle’s wiring diagram. Next, connect the red multimeter lead to the battery positive terminal and the black lead to the ground pin. You should see a reading of about 12 volts indicating a good ground. If not, you’ll need to consult the ground side of the wiring diagram to find where the circuit fault lies. Next, check that there is continuity to the PCM. You can do this by touching one meter lead to the return signal pin on the sensor connector and the other to signal pin on the PCM. Set your meter to the ohms setting – you should see a value appear on the screen. If instead, your meter reads OL, you have an open circuit and will need to trace the factory wiring diagram.
-
- Hall Effect Sensor: A Hall Effect Sensor has three wires: signal, reference and ground. Start by consulting the wiring diagram (All Data DIY) for your vehicle to determine which pin on the connector is which. Next, connect the red multimeter lead to the battery positive terminal and the black lead to the ground pin. You should see a reading of about 12 volts indicating a good ground. Then, check that the 5-volt reference is getting to the sensor by connecting the red multimeter lead to the reference voltage pin and the other to ground. You should see a reading of about 5 volts indicating a good reference voltage. Finally, check that there is continuity to the PCM. You can do this by touching one meter lead to the return signal pin on the sensor connector and the other to signal pin on the PCM. Set your meter to the ohms setting – you should see a value appear on the screen. If instead, your meter reads OL, you have an open circuit and will need to trace the factory wiring diagram.
- Test the sensor synchronization
CMP/CKP Synch status (yes/no) is displayed on many scan tools, but unfortunately, that parameter can’t always be trusted. The best way to test cam and crank sensors, as well as their synchronization, is with an oscilloscope. Increasingly more manufactures are offering sample wave form patterns in their repair information, which should be consulted before testing. The timing relationship (synchronization) of the two sensors will be distorted if a timing belt jumps time, a cam gear slips, a timing chain gets loose or a cam phaser misbehaves. Cracked reluctors and missing reluctors can also lead to an altered waveform pattern.
Hooking up a scope to a Hall Effect sensor
(Courtesy: autozone)
If the synchronization pattern is distorted, you need to find out why. In most cases, this will involve engine disassembly to the point of failure. Removing the timing cover and checking that the timing marks line up is one of the first things to do. Both timing belts and timing chains may stretch over time and/or have a failed tensioner.
An example of a cam and crank pattern
(Courtesy: aa1car.com)
Variable valve timing (VVT) system components can cause cam/crank correlation problems as well. These systems are often dependent on oil pressure, so checking the oil level is a good place to start. A plugged or failed oil control valve can also cause VVT problems.
VVT system
(Courtesy: f150online.com)
VVT solenoids can be tested for continuity or resistance with a digital multimeter. The solenoid circuit should also be tested for proper power and ground. In addition, the solenoids can also be removed and jumpered to battery voltage to confirm operation. Many scan tools also offer bi-directional testing of the solenoids with just the push of a button.
Codes Related to P0016
- DTC: P0010 “A” Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
- DTC: P0011 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
- DTC: P0012 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
- DTC: P0013 “B” Camshaft Position – Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
- DTC: P0014 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) – See Trouble Code P0011
- DTC: P0015 “B” Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1) – See Trouble Code P0012
- DTC: P0016 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
- DTC: P0017 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor)
- DTC: P0018 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A)
- DTC: P0019 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor )
- DTC: P0020 “A” Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
- DTC: P0021 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
- DTC: P0022 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
- DTC: P0023 “B” Camshaft Position – Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0020
- DTC: P0024 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0021
- DTC: P0025 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0022
BAT Team Discussions for P0016
- 2003 PT Cruiser Rebuilt engine
I couldn't find a definition for OBD2 code P0016, what is the full (and precise) description that you have?... - Need a little help on a P0014 code
Is the P0017 code still coming back? Is the P0014 predominant? If the P0017 is predominant, I would also check for timing chain problems. Also a known issue which will cause. P0016 - P0019 codes. Meaning a crank to cam sensor correlation problem. I don't think you can read pressure at cam ports. ... - BAT Presents "P0016"
BAT is working on making videos. One of our writers, Mia, explains how to troubleshoot P0016 on her 2005 Toyota Camry 2.4L. [MEDIA=youtube]r7Nxd-TKKLE[/MEDIA] Feedback welcome.... - POO16 on 2003 Toyota Camry
thanks Nick...I appreciate what you said....Yeah,71 and I still work on cars almost every day...I guess till I die...lol...thanks everybody for your input...I did replace the vvt solenoid and the p0016 is still there....Jim...
hi ,,,
i have volvo c30 t5 2009
after replacment crank pulley seal dirct warm check engine light !!
why ?
i check by obd2 and shown for me p0016
where the location for crank-piston shaft acclloriton?
am waiting your reply in my email
thanks
According to the repair information I have for this vehicle, the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are nowhere near the front crankshaft seal. They’re both located farther up on the engine. It’s possible this code was set due to improper pulley installation, but not likely. I’m thinking you probably replaced the camshaft seal, and not the crankshaft seal? To replace the camshaft seal, you have to remove the variable valve timing unit, which could DEFINITELY set a P0016 code. Double check your records and get back to me.
I replaced cam and crank shaft and I still getting limp mode sometimes. the idle at start up takes forever to figure out and check engine light comes on. I’m getting this code on the reader. I think it might need new wires?
Laura-
Do you mean you replace the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors? Have you checked the wiring that goes to them? There may be a wiring fault somewhere between the ECM and the sensors themselves if you’re still coming up with P0016.
Are you coming up with different DTCs now?
-Ben
I’m not a mechanic, but id like to fix the problem myself. I just can not find a diagram or video to show me where the sensor is! I have a 2011 Chevy Impala p0016 is the code – cam/crankshaft pos.correlation sensor.
Chuck-
Well, there’s no problem with the sensors themselves, as the ECM needs to be able to read both of them in order to check correlation. Basically, what this DTC is saying is that the timing is wrong, so it’s seeing the signals, but they’re not coming in at the right time.
You may have a spun reluctor wheel, but I would be more suspect of a stretched timing chain, which means your cam shafts are a few degrees behind the crankshaft. I’m not sure of your DIY auto repair skills, but diagnosis will require removing at least the valve cover. If the chain is stretched, it will require replacement, which can be a difficult job. I would be wary of getting into that without a factory repair manual and a couple of specialty tools.
-Ben
hello ben please i only ask my mechanic to change my fan belt after 2 minute check engine sign came up and i scanned the car what i found is camshaft position actuator circuit open(bank 1) so i went back to the guy but he said the sensor is bad.
please can i use the scanner to clear this error. Thanks
Tayo-
If you have an actuator code, we should continue this conversation on that page. In any case, the actuator is for variable valve timing, which may have become unplugged when the drive belt was changed. Look under the hood for any connectors that aren’t connected. If you just clear the code, it’s going to come right back until you fix the connection problem.
-Ben
Hi Ben,
Couple of days ago I replaced the timing belt on my Toyota Avalon 2004 /185000 miles. Now I am getting a P0016 and P0018 about crankshaft position code. Car is running fine no missing or problem with acceleration. I was extremely careful not to move the came or crankshaft while putting the new timing bely (DAYCO), probably not careful enough (LOL).
I don’t why these codes came. Kindly tell me where on Toyota Avalon 2004 these censor are located? I don’t think censor are bad I have this car for 12 years never had issue for engine light.
Before changing the timing belt car had passed emission test. So I may drive year and half so like this until next emission test is due. Would this cause any harm to engine.
Thank you.
Desi
Desi-
Well, the code is saying that the cam/crank aren’t in sync. It probably won’t cause any problems, but it’s not a great idea to run like that, since you’re spending more money on fuel and might cause emissions problems. You might have put the belt on one or two teeth off center.
-Ben
Tengo el mismo problema con mi accent 2008 ya cambie el sensor y sigue el problema
Juan-
No es el sensor. Probablemente es la correa (timing belt) o algo cambió la sincronización. (Disculpame, mi español tecnico no es tan desarrollado.)
-Ben
Hi, my 2011 grand Cherokee 3.6 liter continues to have the p0016 code even after the dealership said they replaced the camshaft sensor and cleared the code. Then I replaced the crankshaft sensor and cleared the code. I’m not sure the timing is off since drivability is not effected. Anything else I can check before taking it back to my incompetent stealership?
Jonathan-
Depending on the vehicle, timing can be off a bit before it starts to affect drivability. The sensors should not have been replaced, because the ECM can’t test correlation until the CKP and CMP monitors have passed. Correlation DTCs are usually caused by jumped timing (timing belts usually) or stretching timing belts or chains. You’d have to set the crankshaft to TDC and see if the camshafts line up. Unfortunately, this isn’t easy to check, because the timing chain is covered up and you can’t run the engine with the timing cover removed.
-Ben
I bought a 2007 VW GTI that came with a slipped timing belt. I replaced crank and cam sensors, then found the problem. Replaced the timing belt and tensioner, then replaced the cam chain and tensioner. I was careful to align the timing marks on the belt and made sure the chain was replaced in the exact position as removed. Cams aligned as prescribed in the manual. I’m still getting P0016. I tried moving the intake cam forward one tooth on the chain, but that didn’t help, so I set it back to where it was. Does the ECM recognize the new sensors? What should I try next?
Toby-
Well, the ECM can’t run the correlation UNLESS it can see both sensors working, so there’s no problem with the sensors. Is this the only code you’re getting? I think there might be a problem with the VVT camshaft. The timing belt and chain might be set properly, but if the camshaft is stuck (internal failure or stuck VVT solenoid) the sensor wouldn’t see the camshaft in time.
-Ben
I’ll check the resistance on the VVT solenoid, but I think it would be setting a code P000A and P0010 if it were faulty. If it is the camshaft adjuster, the only test I know of is to replace it to see if it fixes it ($200+). I know these are oil-driven; can I tap into the oil passage somewhere to check pressure? The car has only the idiot light. It’s possible there’s an oil passage plugged leading to the solenoid and adjuster. If I pull the solenoid and start the engine should I see a fair amount of oil come out?
Toby-
Sorry, I didn’t mean check the solenoid electrically, because you’re right, it would throw a circuit code. I was thinking maybe you have to check the oil passage and the function of the valve itself. Take it out and bench test it and see if the valve moves forward and back. Also, there might be an oil strainer for that valve. If it’s stuffed, insufficient oil flow might mess things up. I’ll do some more reading and get back to you on this.
-Ben
Benjamin-
Thanks for the replies. That is the only engine code I’m getting, also a transmission code for a #5 valve, but that may clear up since I just changed trans oil and filter. I will bench test the solenoid, and I just ordered a new cam adjuster. I’ll let you know if that fixes the problem.
Benjamin,
The new cam adjuster did not change the problem. On the bench the solenoid moves when 12V applied, so it appears good. The only strainer screen I found is for drain-back into the oil gallery and is clear. I still have P0016. I was told it could be a worn oil pump or balance shafts, causing a lack of oil getting to the top end. If so, do I need to pull the pan and how would I check? Can the oil sender fitting be reached to attach an oil pressure test gauge? It seems impossible to get to.
Hello Benjamin, I have an Alfa Romeo 159 3.2 (GM based engine) with this P0016 Phase error coming up. There is a driveability issue. When the oil temp is below 70 degrees Celsius the Valve timing does not adjust for load changes resulting in very low power. When the oil temp goes over 70degrees Celsius then the valve timing adjusts properly and the engine has full power.
I have had all four solenoids removed and cleaned and they seem fine. I have changed and flushed the oil but still have this problem. I have had the MAF replaced as a test, no difference. I am assuming it is not a timing chain issue otherwise the issue would exist at all oil temperatures not just cold.
Any insight you might have on this would be helpful. I understand these cars weren’t sold in the US, but I’m guessing most VVT systems have some commonalities.
Rick-
Timing chain issues would indeed exist at all temperatures, I wonder if there is a problem with the ECT making the engine think it’s cold when it really isn’t. When the engine is cold, I think the ECM might be locking out VVT function. At the same time, I’m thinking that you really should check the timing to be sure. Cold engine running conditions are different, which could be why it runs run when warmed up. I’ll do some more reading on this and get back to you.
-Ben
Rick-
I forgot to mention that this engine is known for chain stretch, even with as little as 20K km on the clock. You have to be really meticulous when checking valve timing and chain stretch, as even a couple mm can make a difference. Check around online for improved timing chain.
-Ben
[…] engine. Anyway, since getting it back I've been looking at what can cause that and I found this: P0016 – Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A -correlation – OBD2 Troub… (appologies if I'm not allowed to just throw in a link like that) At the end, it comments that […]
my 2010 dodge ram wont shift to 5th or 6th gear. the check engine came on – took it to auto part store and coded p0016.
Chris-
Well, aside from the timing chain actually skipping a tooth, it seems like this might be a glitch, according to some forums I’ve read. I would say clear the DTC and see if it comes back. If you don’t have a scan tool, you can disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes to reset the system. If the DTC comes back, then you probably have a timing chain stretch or skip issue. Just so you know, locking out 5th and 6th gear is just part fo the failure mode because of the DTC, not a problem with the transmission.
-Ben
Hey Ben, I have a 2006 Mazda 6i with a new engine (40k miles) and transmission(40k miles). Other day after new engine got installed, I was getting a p0012 code (VCT solenoid Timing over retarded). I replaced the VCT Solenoid and everything was going well until another CEL came on, P0791 and P0016. I’m not too sure what to do right now. Just yesterday I bought 2 new senors for the codes and had them professionally installed, codes cleared multiple times but they always come back on, in a strange way though! So after the car is turned off and back on the CEL will stay on, but the AT (Automatic Transaxle) Light will go off. The AT light will come back on about 4-5 seconds into 4th gear, whether by automatic shift, or manual shifting, then the tiptonic goes out and I lose manual mode, the AT light comes back on and I’m so lost. Also, In 5th gear, It feels like its underpowered, like its dogging its self. Thank you for any help, feel free to ask questions!
Brayden-
It seems like the timing is off, meaning the timing chain is stretched or one of the VVT cams is stuck. Broken lock pins in the VVT cam seems like a common issue. Timing chain stretch is possible if the oil was not changed as frequently as it should. The used engine you put in is an unknown, but I wouldn’t have replaced sensors, since the correlation monitor can’t run unless the sensor monitors have run and passed. Anyway, you need to have a close look at cam/crank timing and be sure everything lines up perfectly.
-Ben
Hey, I have Peugeot 308 XSE turbo my car is not functioning at all one issue could be of battery and I am getting P0016 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A) error the car stopped suddenly and didn’t pickup from there.
Thanks,
Pritam-
I would start with a new battery, then clear the codes and drive it. The ECU doesn’t like to see low voltage, and it cuts things out to prevent damage. Also, it seems that this engine is particularly susceptible to chain stretch, which would cause correlation faults.
-Ben
[…] […]
Hi Ben,
There is a noise coming from my Cross Touran 2011(not sure whether it’s from chain or other part, but definitely metallic sound as long as the car started). I checked, and got this error code P0016.
Do you have any recommendation for me what to do? TQ.
The service centre is fully booked & only free on 17th Jan 2017.
Azwan
Azwan-
At this point, especially with chain slap, I would say to stop driving your car, immediately, and have it towed to the shop before any further damage is done.
I’m not sure which engine you’ve got, but I’ve read that lack of oil pressure can cause the hydraulic chain tensioner to slacken, which might lead to chain slap and correlation faults. Check you have enough oil and have an oil pressure test done. It COULD be chain stretch, and it’s so far gone that the tensioner can’t touch it, in which case it would cause noise and correlation problems. The only way to check it is to take it apart and measure the chain, though. Make sure the technician checks for collateral damage from the slapping, and to replace anything that could have been impacted.
-Ben
Hello,
I have a 2013 Ford Explorer Sport. The P0016 code has been showing for awhile but I wasn’t having any issues with my car until today when it started to vibrate once I got up to 60mph. Is the code the problem and can an amateur fix it?
David-
How long is “awhile,” I’m wondering. I would first check that you have the correct oil level and that the last oil change was done using the correct oil viscosity. Any loss in oil pressure, either at the timing chain tensioner or in one of the VVT actuators, will cause the timing to go out of sync. Cam phaser problems seem to be common on this model.
-Ben
Hi. 2007 chevy cobalt LS 2.2l. Saturday we drove the car all day. On Sunday we went to start it and it cranked but didn’t turn over. Error p0016. Do you think its just a sensor?
My ford falcon au1 i plugged obd2 and check camshaft says ok and low when ignition on but when i start the engine it says fault and low what does it mean by that
Regard
Hani
Hello.
I’m working on an 07 pontiac G6 with 4 cylinder engine. Getting p0016 code. Car would not run.
Owner replaced crank position sensor and car runs now. However code comes back when deleted. Car runs rough but has other codes for MAF performance so may have other issues. If you run the rpm above 2500 and delete code it won’t come back until rpms go back to idle. Could use some new ideas.
Thanks.
I HAVE A 2008 HHR CHEVY AND I STOPPED AND GOT GAS AND THEN ABOUT 10 MILES DOWN THE ROAD IT STARTED LOSEING POWER AND THEN DIE . IT WILL CRANK BUT WILL NOT HIT A LICK . PULLED PLUGS AND THEY ARE ALL FIRING REAL GOOD AND AS CHECKING THEM THERE WAS GAS COMING OUT OF PLUG HOLES . PUT KNEW CRANK AND CAM SENSORS IN BUT DID NOT HELP ANY. NOW THE CODE READS P0016 IT WILL NOT EVEN TRY TO START ANY IDEA
Hi, I’am looking for Daihatsu Terios PCM diagram. How can I get it?
Hi i have a toyota avensus d4 vvt-i im having noise when startup getting a p0016 code
I have a 2009 chevy express with a 6.0 liter engine i have code for a camshaft sensor and a crank sensor.I did the test on both and replace both sensors with GM parts. And I still have the same problem dies on deceleration and crank no start till it sits for a couple of hours. So i did some more research and replace oil with synthetic oil new filter. also change timing chain sprockets,chain, oil pump, camshaft actuator mechanical and electrical component.Oh yeah i also did a camshaft relearn with a tech 2 and im still having the same problem of dies when deceleration and crank no start. anyone have any ideas help is appreciated.
thank you
Yes I have a 2011 3.5 ecoboost. Ford dealer changed the timing chain phasers guides and tensioners. Drove it for a week and it went into limp mode with the p0016 code for can sensor crank sensor. Dealer says its not out of time and the sensor in bank 1 sensor A is supposedly good! What is causing this then?
Hi, I have the code P0016 on my Porsche Cayenne Turbo 2010 V8 engine . Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
Please can you help me to identify the correct position left or Right ?
When you seat in the car this is the left one or Right one ?
Thanks
I have a 2006 Kia Sedona and the oil leaked out somehow and i don’t realize it. The P0016 code came on along with some misfires. I quickly stopped driving it and did a check and realized the oil problem and got some in there and since then it only stays with the P0016 code. There’s no fuel efficiency issues just some slow acceleration. What do you think? Also I was told there is a small crack above the oil pan.
Why is there no info on the 2012 chrysler 300 with 3.6L VVT? I have replaced both camshaft position sensors which are located on the top of the engine towards the back firewall of the engine. They each have 4 wires but the internet only references 2 or 3 wire configurations.
What is the parameters of the camshaft sensors for this vehicle and also do I have to relearn the system after replacing these sensors?
I’ve tested the plug and crankshaft position sensor which came back 4.8 volts and .742 ohms respectfully. This is all do to a code P0016. Your thoughts please..
I have a 2008 Mustang 4.6L engine. After changing out the cams with ford performance cams and added the SVT tunes. I received code P0016. I have been running it this way for about 8 months now with no issues. Now its time for car inspection and I can’t get rid of this code. The car runs great and I can’t figure out the problem. Any guesses?
Hi Ben
Re: P0016
I have a 2011 Kia Sorento 4 cyl 2.4 L fwd. 1.5 years ago I had to accelerate to enter a freeway, and a minute later the engine bogged down with check engine light coming on. It kind of came back unbogging. After visit mechanic who reset a misfire error, the car was running ok with no light.
Then last winter I had some some wheel work done. It was about the coldest night of the winter. Engine light came back on. The oil could have been compromised – old, cold and slow.
So recently Tlthere were several codes – around 3. It took several seconds to start with the right punch on gas.
Replacing the camshaft sensors removed all but P0016. The car starts fine. Runs OK.
The OCV solenoids tested around 8 to 10.5 ohms at hot temperatures with spec ranges between 6.7 to 7.9 @ 68 deg F on the 2-3 mfgs.
I took out the exhaust OCV and it clicked fine with 12 volts momentary applied.
Where do I go from here? Stretched chain, phasers wacked, or what? The OCV oil filter is not inside behind the OCV but between cam and head.
Anyway last oil change exposed very old oil. New filter is KnE Gold high flow.
Buonasera, ho un problema con scirocco 1.4 TSI 122 CV, si accende la spia motore e dalla diagnosi mi da il codice P0016, ho sostituito il sensore albero a camme ma non ho risolto la cattura ha 150.000 km e mi è stato detto che potrebbe essere la catena allungata e il motore sfasato, preventivo circa 1.400 euro. Possibile? Mi dicono che con la catena va anche sostituito il variatore di fase che costa ben 460 euro, devo fidarmi? a me sembra un po strano, aspetto un vostro conforto grazie.
hellow Dear
I have 2007 Toyota vitiz with 3 piston ,1000 cc .
after long drive and some millage i saw check engine ,then after i stop the engine and park it the check engine stop and illuminate agine after some millage .
i have check it with computer get P00016 fault Code .
can you please assist me and is it good to drive with this fault .
Hello Filimin. Yes its okay to drive, but not long term. The timing appears to be off or out of sync in your timing belt system. I wouldnt waste time throwing sensors at it just yet; I would just take it to a mechnic who could align your timing marks perfectly, then erase the code. The crankshaft position and cam position have to be perfect, or things will be awry in your car as a whole. the timing may have jumped a bit. Hope this helped you, and good luck.
Ford 2009 Edge. Has V6 3.7L. Oil was changed. First P0015 & P0016. Then P0016 went away. Took it back and had them put new oil in (they over filled by quart). 15 & 16 went away, for a short time. Then P0016 came back. Put in new CPS’s (had it apart figured do both). P0016 will still trip intermittently. Let about half quart oil out. P0016 will still trip once in a while. No loss of performance though. Just strange, no problems till oil change. Check engine light does not come on now. If I didn’t have the OB reader hooked up, I would never notice.
Sorry, it’s a 3.5l V6
Gosh, I am like 85% sure it’s the water pump, which is chain driven off the same chain as the cam shafts and the drive shaft. Don’t see any leakage throw the weep hole, but there is like steam or smoke coming out of the dip stick hole when I check it. Oil really isn’t milky, but sure does look awfully dirty. The coolant level has gone down by about a 1/8th an inch. Just worried that a water pump replacement is like $1400 or more.
Helo mr. RICE. I dont really think it is the water pump quite honestly. Yes it may be chain driven, but honestly I think it may have jumped time a few teeth. This can happen when a chain becomes worn and doesnt get replaced or adjusted at regular intervals. I noticed you have quite a few miles on your rig. The sensor A is a cam posotion sensor on the exhaust cam. Maybe start by looking at the wiring harness on the sensor itself meanwhile having someone check the timing of your vehicle, or if you know how to do it yourself. Hope this narrows down your search, and that it can be timed correctly. Although overfilling your oil by a quart can be bad, looks like you handled it already and don’t think that is the reason for the code. If the crank cam correlation are out of sync, it is usually just out of timing.
Regards, Nathaniel. A.S.E certified technician.
Interesting new development. If I cam out on the highway and keep it at highway speeds, it will not throw the P0016 at highway speeds. Above 1000 rpm. Drove for 20 miles checking and it wouldn’t throw the code. But when I stopped to turn around, it threw the code. A bit of help would be appreciated Mr. Olsen.
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Hello mr. Rice. Okay, so after hearing your symptoms, and digging into this a bit more. Here’s what I came up with for you. If you can, try to check voltage on a violet colored wire going to your intake variable cam timing solenoid.if you have voltage going to this solenoid, and If your timing is okay, replace the variable cam timing solenoid. This should cure your problem. Remeber it ks for the intake cam, not the exhaust cam solenoid. Cheers.